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Temple in Transit

Yongle Palace stands as a testament to ancient artistic mastery and religious devotion. Its mid-20th-century relocation highlights China’s extraordinary efforts in cultural heritage preservation

By Lü Weitao , Wang Yuyan Updated Jul.1

Yongle Palace, Yuncheng, Shanxi Province, October 14, 2024 (Photo by VCG)

In January 2025, the exhibition The Glory Within Authenticity, a major showcase of cultural relics and digital art from Yongle Palace in Shanxi Province, opened at the National Museum of Classic Books in Beijing. The sixth stop on its ongoing nationwide tour, the event features more than 150 treasured artifacts from Yongle Palace, China’s only surviving architectural complex from the Yuan Dynasty (1271- 1368). The exhibition will run through August 2025. 

Located in Yongle Town of Ruicheng County, Central China’s Shanxi Province, Yongle Palace is also the earliest, largest and best-preserved Daoist temple complex in China. Yongle Palace is renowned for its magnificent architecture, murals so dynamic they seem to move with the wind, and the extraordinary feat of its 20-kilometer relocation in the 1950s to allow for a hydropower project. 

Yongle is considered the birthplace of Lü Dongbin, a legendary scholar and Daoist figure who supposedly lived about 1,200 years ago during the Tang Dynasty (618-907). 

He is revered as the patriarch of the Daoist Dan Ding sect, which centers on alchemy and the pursuit of immortality. Commonly known as Lü Zu (Patriarch Lü), he is also one of Taoism’s legendary Eight Immortals, famed for his magical powers and for helping those in need. 

One of the most famous legends involving Lü tells of the celestial Howling Sky Hound. According to the tale, the hound arrived to wreak havoc on the world. Lü was ordered to subdue it using his magical artifact, the Silken Painting. However, moved by compassion, he chose to release the beast. To his surprise, the hound turned on him and bit him. This tale gave rise to the saying, “A dog biting Lü Dongbin,” which describes someone who fails to appreciate kindness and misinterprets goodwill. 

During the late Tang, a shrine called Lü Gong Temple was built in Yongle to honor him. Each year, locals visited the temple on his supposed birth date to pay their respects. As Lü Dongbin’s popularity grew, the shrine was expanded into a larger Daoist temple. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by fire in 1231. At the time, the Quanzhen School of Daoism, also known as the School of All Authenticity, was flourishing. This sect, founded by Wang Chongyang during the Jin Dynasty (1115- 1234), petitioned the imperial court and dispatched disciples to construct a grand palace in Lü’s honor. 

One of the forces behind this effort was Song Defang, an influential Daoist leader of the time. He visited Yongle in 1240 and again in 1244 to pay homage to Lü Dongbin. Inspired by these visits, he and fellow Daoists planned the construction of Dachunyang Wanshou Palace, later known as Yongle Palace. Construction began in 1247, the same year Song Defang passed away. Per his wishes, he was buried within the palace grounds.

Immortal Resting Place 
When Yongle Palace was relocated in the 1950s and 1960s, Song Defang’s tomb was moved as well. But when his stone coffin was opened, it was found empty. Some believe he may have achieved shijie, a Daoist term for immortality, while others think it was simply a cenotaph. Today, his intricately carved stone coffin is a national first-grade cultural relic and is on display at The Glory Within Authenticity exhibition. 

Another key figure in Yongle Palace’s construction was Pan Dechong, a disciple of Quanzhen Daoism. After Song Defang’s death, Pan Dechong took over the palace project. He passed away in 1256 and was buried on the northwest side of the palace, by which time much of the complex had already taken shape. His tomb was also moved during the relocation, though few artifacts were recovered. The exhibition features only the front cover of his stone coffin, which, like Song Defang’s, is decorated with intricate carvings. 

Construction of the palace continued after Pan Dechong’s death and was finally completed in 1358, taking a total of 111 years. 

Today, at its new site, Yongle Palace is oriented north to south. Its main structures include the Palace Gate, Wuji Gate, Sanqing Hall, Chunyang Hall and Chongyang Hall. Except for the Palace Gate, rebuilt during the late Ming and early Qing dynasties (1368-1911), all the buildings date back to the Yuan Dynasty. The layout follows a typical Daoist temple hierarchy: Sanqing Hall, which honors the highest-ranking deities, stands at the center and is the tallest and most prominent building, while the other halls are arranged in descending order of importance. Yongle Palace adheres strictly to this vertical axis, with no auxiliary buildings flanking the sides. It is enclosed by two layers of palace walls, a defining feature of official-style architecture.

Tourists view murals at Yongle Palace, Shanxi Province, September 15, 2024 (Photo by VCG)

Exquisite Murals 
At the exhibition, visitors can view a chiwen, a legendary animal-shaped ornament once perched on the roof ridge of Chunyang Hall that was removed during the mid-20th-century relocation of Yongle Palace. This glazed figure, made of red clay, stands 2.2 meters tall. Its exaggerated form conveys a powerful, intense energy. 

The palace’s century-long construction was largely due to the painstaking process of painting its murals. In Chinese art history, these murals are seen as both a continuation and refinement of Tang and Song traditions. They are masterpieces of Yuan Dynasty Daoist art, embodying ideals of truth, virtue and beauty. Alongside the murals of the Dunhuang Grottoes, they are hailed as national treasures, earning Yongle Palace the nickname “Eastern Gallery.” 

The murals serve as Daoist visual doctrine, designed to teach, inspire and awe. Their creation spanned nearly the entire Yuan Dynasty. More than 1,000 square meters of murals survive today, mainly within four Yuan-era halls: Longhu Hall, Sanqing Hall, Chunyang Hall and Chongyang Hall. 

The murals in Longhu and Sanqing halls were executed with fine brushwork and vivid colors. They depict awe-inspiring scenes of guardian deities in cosmic landscapes, with celestial bodies such as the sun, moon and stars, and earthly features like mountains and rivers, woven into a Daoist vision of unity. Central to these scenes is Yuanshi Tianzun, the supreme Daoist deity, worshipped by a pantheon of divine figures. 

By contrast, the murals in Chunyang and Chongyang halls adopt a blue-green landscape style and a narrative approach. They recount the lives of Lü Dongbin and Wang Chongyang, highlighting Daoist values such as punishing evil, upholding virtue, helping the needy and fighting corruption. 

Among them, The Assembly of Immortals in Sanqing Hall stands as the most exceptional, an AI-assisted restoration and digital replica of which is featured in the exhibition. This enormous mural, covering nearly 430 square meters, spans the northeastern and western interior walls. It portrays 290 deities paying homage to Yuanshi Tianzun. Eight principal figures are three meters tall. Even the smallest celestial maidens stand 1.9 meters, larger than life. 

Completed in 1325, the mural showcases sweeping composition, dynamic brushwork and deep, resonant color. It represents the zenith of Yuan mural art and is the largest known ancient Chinese figure painting, an essential chapter in global art history. 

The most stunning feature of the mural, also known as Chaoyuan Tu, is its expressive detail. Each of the 290 figures has distinct facial features and expressions. Their attire and headwear are entirely unique – no two are the same. The deities reflect a broad human spectrum: various classes, temperaments, life stories and emotions. Across more than 400 square meters, hundreds of figures, vessels, cloud patterns and decorative motifs are drawn with fluid lines, showcasing the pinnacle of traditional Chinese linework. 

Color is another highlight. Artists used a technique called “heavy color outline filling” – bold outlines are meticulously drawn with a fine brush and filled in with mineral pigments, such as azurite, malachite, cinnabar and ochre. The most supreme deities are emphasized with vivid reds and greens, delicate gilding and ornamentation such as flowing robes, pearls and jade. From afar, the mural is majestic in its visual impact. Up close, the intricate linework and finely painted garments reveal its full beauty. Thanks to the use of natural mineral pigments, the colors remain dazzling and majestic, even 700 years later.

Great Relocation 
Beyond the palace’s architecture and mural art, the mid-20th century relocation of Yongle Palace was an engineering feat of historic proportions. 

In the 1950s, China began constructing the Sanmenxia Reservoir on the Yellow River to control floods and generate hydroelectric power. However, the original Yongle Palace site lay within the planned flood zone. To preserve this irreplaceable cultural treasure, the government launched a decade-long project to relocate the entire temple complex 20 kilometers from Yongle to Longquan Town. 

The most daunting task was extracting and transporting the murals. There was no precedent, prior domestic experience or foreign assistance. Experts had to rely on their own ingenuity, designing tools like large saws, manually operated lifts and wooden scaffolding from scratch. Some of these devices are on display in the current exhibition, offering a glimpse into the dedication and problem-solving behind the effort. 

Archaeologists Qi Yingtao and Chai Zejun led numerous experiments before finalizing a workable plan. Before the move, Professor Lu Hongnian of the Central Academy of Fine Arts and his students spent seven months creating full reproductions of the murals, now national treasures themselves, housed in the Palace Museum in Beijing. 

To transport the fragile artifacts, workers packed the murals in wooden crates, braced them with custom frames, and cushioned them with old cotton and wood shavings. After doing some vibration tests with handcarts, they loaded them on trucks. A dedicated riverside road was even built for the move. 

At the time, the core relocation team members were all under 30. Despite their youth, they achieved what many thought impossible. Many would later become leading figures in archaeology, conservation and engineering. Their names are etched in history, not only for saving Yongle Palace, but for defining a milestone in China’s cultural heritage preservation.

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